ベラルーシからバスで隣国へ、抑圧逃れる最後の脱出経路

【ブレスト（ベラルーシ）ＡＦＰ＝時事】リュドミラさん（７０）には、祖国ベラルーシと欧州諸国を自由に行き来していた楽しい思い出がある。抑圧的な政府が西側諸国から相次いで経済制裁を科され、孤立する前の話だ。（写真はポーランド・ワルシャワ西駅のバスターミナルで待機するベラルーシ・ミンスク行きのバスの乗客）
　アレクサンドル・ルカシェンコ大統領は２０２０年に反政府デモを弾圧。昨年は、ロシアによるウクライナ侵攻を支援したことから、欧州各国はベラルーシとのフライトを禁止し、国境を閉鎖した。新型コロナウイルスの感染拡大時には、鉄道網も停止した。
　隣国ポーランドへの最後の検問所があるブレスト近郊で、バスの乗客が通行許可が下りるのを待っていた。リュドミラさんもその一人だ。ベラルーシが政情不安に陥る前の数年間は何の問題もなくスペインをはじめ、欧州諸国に旅をしていたと語った。「今はもちろん、何もかもが大変になった」
　権威主義を強めるベラルーシから、バスでポーランドの首都ワルシャワに向かう人も多い。空路と鉄路が閉鎖されたことから、ルカシェンコ氏の独裁から逃れる人々、あるいは単に欧州で休暇を過ごす人々にとって、バスを使ったこのルートが重要なライフラインとなっている。
　ベラルーシの首都ミンスクからワルシャワまでのバスの旅は約１２時間。国境で遅れが出ることも少なくない。
　■ベラルーシの政治難民も多数受け入れ
　だが、反政府デモ以降、ポーランドがベラルーシ人にとって安全な避難先となった。公式の統計によれば、外国人としてはウクライナ人に次いで２番目に多い。今年の時点で滞在しているベラルーシ人は７万９０３０人と、反政府デモ前の３倍に膨れ上がっている。
　ポーランドは２０年、ベラルーシの技術専門職の人にビザ（査証）を迅速に発給する制度を導入した。反移民的な政策を転換し、「民主的で自由市場の経済天国」だとアピールし、現在は最もベラルーシ政治難民を受け入れている国となっている。
　エレナさん（４９）は２１年後半、治安当局の標的になるのを懸念してベラルーシを離れた家族の後を追い、出国した。ＡＦＰの電話取材に応じ、「大半のベラルーシ人が、やむにやまれず祖国や家族を捨てた」と話した。
　「ベラルーシにいたら、思想信念を理由に刑務所に入れられてしまう」
　人権団体によると、ベラルーシで現在勾留されている政治犯は１５００人近くに上っている。
　ポーランドとベラルーシ間のバスを定期的に利用しているエレナさんは、今でも年に数回は帰国し、娘に会い、役所で必要な手続きを済ませている。
　しかし、故郷ベラルーシの状況は、ますます不安定になってきている。
　ベラルーシは、ロシアの民間軍事会社ワグネルによる短期に終わった反乱後、同戦闘員を受け入れた。ルカシェンコ氏は、ワグネル部隊にはワルシャワ進軍計画があると主張している。
　ポーランドなど欧州連合加盟国は、ワグネル関連の事件が起きた場合、国境の完全閉鎖もあり得ると警告している。
　「国境が完全に閉鎖されたら、ベラルーシの人々の生活はとても苦しいものになるはずだ」とエレナさんは語った。【翻訳編集ＡＦＰＢＢＮｅｗｓ】
〔ＡＦＰ＝時事〕（2023/08/24-16:55）

Lyudmila, 70, has fond memories of travelling freely to Europe from her native Belarus, before its repressive government was slapped with waves of sanctions plunging it into isolation.
Strongman Alexander Lukashenko violently put down historic anti-government demonstrations in 2020 and last year helped Russian forces invade Ukraine, sparking flight bans and border closures.
Waiting at the last open passenger crossing point to neighbouring Poland, Lyudmila, who only provided her first name due to security concerns, recounted hassle-free trips, including to Spain, in the years before the unrest.
It's all become harder of course, she said, resting on a sunny patch of grass as passengers on her bus to the Polish capital passed through border checks near Brest.
The pensioner with heavily drawn eyebrows is one of thousands of Belarusians who now rely on the route to Warsaw to exit the increasingly authoritarian country.
The closed air and rail routes point to how that link has become a lifeline for those fleeing Lukashenko's authoritarian rule -- or just holidaying in Europe.
Poland has emerged as a safe haven for Belarusians since the demonstrations, and official data show they now make up the second-largest foreign nationality in the country after Ukrainians.
Even though she had grown used to flying, Lyudmila has chosen to see the positives in the longer route imposed by politics.
I look at the countryside. I like it. (You can) relax! she said with a smile.
- Plans came 'crashing down' -
Western countries imposed the aviation ban over Belarus after Lukashenko scrambled his air force to divert a passenger jet to arrest an activist onboard in 2021. Rail links were halted during the pandemic.
The alternative is fine, even if it's a long way and your legs go numb, said Piotr Sadko, who was chatting with his wife on the bus en route to visit their daughter in Germany.
The bus journey from Minsk to Warsaw takes around 12 hours, but there are often delays at the border.
Naturally, if there were no political conflict, it would all be wonderful, he added.
Ilya, who has historic family links with Poland and was travelling alongside his girlfriend to the European Union for the first time, said he agreed.
The couple stayed in Belarus after the protests and watched as many friends left.
Ilya, who only gave his first name fearing his security, did not link their decision to secure year-long Polish visas to either the Ukraine war or the protests but recognised the far-reaching impact of the conflict.
The situation in the world changed after the events of 2022, adding their plans to travel in Europe had come crashing down after the protests.
A friend of ours is already waiting in Warsaw. He said, 'Guys, everything is ready, just come and we'll have dinner!'
- 'Facing prison for their beliefs' -
In 2020, Poland launched expedited visas for Belarusian tech specialists, touting a democratic, free-market economic haven.
Despite its otherwise contentious record on immigration, Poland is housing more Belarusian political refugees than any other country.
Official data show 79,030 Belarusians in the country as of this year -- a three-fold increase from before the protests.
It's important to understand that most Belarusians left their homeland, families and homes not of their own will, said 49-year-old Elena, who left in late 2021 to follow a family member worried about being targeted by security services.
They are facing prison for their beliefs in Belarus, she told AFP by telephone, providing only her first name.
Rights activists say nearly 1,500 political prisoners are currently detained in Belarus, pointing to the very real threat of persecution.
Elena, a regular on the bus route, still returns several times a year to visit her daughter and handle administrative issues.
But that vital link home is increasingly precarious.
Belarus welcomed Wagner fighters after their short-lived mutiny against Russia's conventional army. Lukashenko has claimed they have designs to march on Warsaw.
Poland and other EU countries have warned any incident involving the private fighting force could result in the border being entirely sealed.
If it is completely closed, life will become very, very hard for Belarusian people, Elena said.
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