ディオール、快適さ求めた作品披露　コロナ禍でデザインに変化

【パリＡＦＰ＝時事】仏パリで開催中のパリ・ファッションウィークで9月29日、マリア・グラツィア・キウリ氏が手掛ける「ディオール」が、21年春夏コレクションを発表した。不確実な世界から身を守るための、快適さを重視した作品が披露された。新型コロナウイルスの打撃を受けるパリで大規模なファッションショーが開催されたのは、ほぼ7か月ぶり。（写真は仏パリで開催された「ディオール」21年春夏コレクションの様子）
　ショーのためにチュイルリー公園に設営された、ステンドグラスのある大聖堂風の会場には、小雨の中、マスク姿のゲストら３００人が訪れた。
　コレクションの多くは、快適さを求めた作品で構成されている。数か月にわたり不安に悩まされてきた人々の神経と魂を落ち着かせるためのものだという。
　伊出身のキウリ氏は、家でくつろぎ、安心できるようなラグジュアリーな衣装を手掛けた。着ると、ほぼ全身が包み込まれるように仕立てられている。
　花があしらわれたヘアバンドや、大きめの金のイヤリングなど、作品の多くは１９７０年代の放浪的な雰囲気だ。
　キウリ氏はＡＦＰに対し「私たちは（今までとは）違った生活を送っています。服との関係というものが、はるかに個人的で親密なものになっています」「みんな自分自身を守りたいのです」と語った。

■「絶滅への反逆」活動家がランウェイに飛び出す一幕も
　ショーでは、気候変動の危機を訴える団体「絶滅への反逆」の活動家がランウェイに出て、「私たちはみなファッションの犠牲者だ」と書かれた旗を広げる一幕も。
　同団体は、「ＣＯ２排出量の１０％」はファッション業界に起因していると主張。環境汚染に加担する主要な業界の一つであることを、人々に思い出させる象徴的なパフォーマンスを披露できたと語った。
　９月２８日に開幕したパリ・ファッションウィークは、今月６日まで開催される。【翻訳編集ＡＦＰＢＢＮｅｗｓ】
〔ＡＦＰ＝時事〕（2020/10/01-11:46）

Dior swaddled its models in cocooning kaftans Tuesday to protect them from an uncertain world, in the first big fashion show staged in virus-hit Paris in nearly seven months.
Three hundred masked movers and shakers braved the drizzle to worship at the cathedral of Dior, as wags dubbed the pavilion with stained glass windows the mythic French brand built in the Tuileries Garden for the occasion.
If the first major live catwalk show in the world's style capital since the lockdown was meant to be a celebration of fashion, no one told the choir.
A dozen sopranos screeched out an ear-splitting mourning dirge as the models winced by, dodging an Extinction Rebellion protester who briefly unfurled a banner proclaiming, We are all fashion victims.
The mounting atonal music was strangely at odds with the looks, which were mostly comfort clothes to soothe nerves and souls addled by months of anxiety.
Dior's Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri created a luxury wardrobe to huddle down at home and to reassure -- clothes that almost cuddled the wearer.
Many had a bohemian 1970s vibe, with floral hair bands worn with large golden earrings.
We are living a different kind of life, much more private when it comes to our relationship with our clothes, much more personal and intimate, Chiuri told AFP.
- 'Infinite layers of colour' -
People want to protect themselves, she said.
Chiuri, the first woman ever to lead the label and an evangelist for feminism, said her ample coats, full-length dresses and loose trousers were about wrapping the wearer in infinite layers of colour as the novelist Virginia Woolf liked to do.
She also riffed heavily on the classic men's shirt and traditional Slavic smocks and tunics, after being sparked by a simple white shirt worn by the American feminist writer Susan Sontag.
While much of the collection with its Far Eastern and Ottoman influences seemed very un-Dior, Chiuri said one of her starting points was a drawing she found by the brand's founder showing silhouettes he created for Japan in 1957.
So she took Christian Dior's classic bar jacket and give it an oriental twist, making it longer and wider and wrapping it with a tied belt at the waist.
The idea was to make a jacket that you feel at home in and that would be beautiful with comforting colours like burnt ochre, light blue and heathered fabric.
She paired them with subdued dresses and long skirts with paisley and floral tapestry patterns.
We have made something to make you feel good, to give you positive energy in the morning, Chiuri insisted.
The colours are varied but very nuanced, she added.
We worked on lot on soft and rustic fabrics like linens and knitted cloth, commissioning ikat prints from Indonesian women who specialise in the traditional technique.
Extinction Rebellion said it staged the symbolic action to remind people that the fashion industry is one of the most polluting in the world, claiming that it is responsible for 10 percent of CO2 emissions.
We abhor that vital resources like water and arable land have been given over to this industry which wastes and pollutes, it added in a statement, branding the fashion industry racist, colonialist, sexist and classist.
The young French brand Coperni also staged an in-person catwalk show Tuesday on top of the Tour Montparnasse skyscraper.
The design duo Arnaud Vaillant and Sebastien Meyer, who previously led Courreges, included stretchy jersey clothes with antibacterial properties as well as offering UV protection.